Pest Prevention Tips
Pest Prevention Tips
Pest/Sites of Pest Activity Habitat Modification/Sanitation Carpenter Ants: Water-damaged wood; fenceposts; decking; firewood; door and window voids; attics; utility piping; dead parts of trees and stumps; tree branches contacting roof. Eliminate conditions that favor moisture accumulation; move and aerate firewood; remove stumps and overhanging branches contacting house as well as rotten railroad ties in landscape; remove dead trees. Termites: Wood in direct contact with the soil; stored newspapers and cardboard boxes; wood (e.g. tree stumps) and construction debris buried in backfill; fenceposts; porches. Break wood-to-soil contact; remove scrap wood and paper debris; improve drainage away from structure; inspect vapor barriers; improve ventilation in crawl spaces. Cockroaches: Kitchens; grocery bags; unrefrigerated vegetables; toasters; radios and TVs; bathrooms; electrical and plumbing conduits; floor drains. Clean up spilled foods and water; eliminate harborage and pathway areas by sealing or screening; repair water leaks; increase ventilation; inspect incoming foods and packaging. Other Ants: Wall voids; gaps under doors and around utility piping; house plants; cracks in pavement; under landscape timbers, rocks and mulch. Remove food sources; seal all cracks and crevices; locate and eliminate nests; correct drainage in houseplants; seal cracks in pavement and concrete slab. Fleas: Pets; wildlife; neighbors' pets; carpets; furniture; pet bedding; yard. Vacuum carpeting and furniture; keep pets in your won yard; proper pet treatment; remove wild animals from structure. Flying Insects: Garbage; faulty plumbing; eaves; attics; light fixtures; wall voids; puddles of water and other moist areas. Install or repair screens; change lighting; improve drainage; remove garbage daily; keep trash cans clean and tightly covered; repair cracks around siding, windows and doors. Pantry/Fabric Pests: Flour; potpourri; spices, cereals; rice; beans; dry petfood; stored clothing; woolen rugs. Inspect foods and packaging prior to storage; store foods in glass/plastic containers; clean-up spilled foods; rotate dry goods; store only clean cloths. Mice and Rats: Kitchen cabinets; stored food; storage areas; wall voids; inside appliances; closets; firewood; attics, garages; basements. Install physical barriers; eliminate food and water; remove nesting sites; inspect incoming boxes. Squirrels/Bats/Birds: Attics; garages; porches; eaves; exhaust vents; nearby trees; utility lines; chimneys. Install chimney caps and screens on roof openings; remove tree branches in contact with home; repair holes in soffit an along roof. Common Structural Pests
THEY'RE THERE. Whether you see them or not, you know The first and most important step in pest control is to The next step is to decide what level of treatment you Rodents
The three most common rodents sharing our households, restaurants, warehouses, barns and other buildings are the House Mouse, Norway Rat, Roof Rat. Mouse Elimination 1. Inspection In order for your rodent control program to be effective (as well as efficient) on a long term basis, all four basic steps should be implemented. Inspection: There are ten signs that a professional should look for when conducting their initial (and follow-up) inspection: Droppings, tracks, gnaw marks, burrowing, runways, grease marks, urine stains, live or dead rodents, rodents sounds and rodent odors. A good inspection gives you a better idea of the size of the population and the routes taken by the rodents. As you will see in Population Reduction, you must intercept the rodents. Proper placements of baits, traps or live traps depend on your inspection! Sanitation: In order for a large population of rodents to flourish, there has to be an abundance of food and water, as well as easy access to a cozy nesting site. By removing or reducing the factors that make any pest population abundant, you remove and reduce the pest. This is the backbone of Integrated Pest Management! Sanitation does imply that you live or work in a pig pen. Proper storage of possible rodent food, removal of undesirable vegetation (grass, weeds) and taking care of rubbish, lumber piles or old equipment are just a few examples of good sanitation practices. Homeowners must also realize that pet foods and wild bird feed are all tasty meals for rodents. Exclusion: Controlling rats and mice by making it impossible for them to enter structures is the best way to eliminate and control indoor populations. Although this is not always feasible, exclusion should not be ignored. It is not always possible to do extensive rodent proofing, but in many cases it can be accomplished with minimum effort. A building can be rodent proofed by eliminating all openings larger than 1/2 inch for rats and 1/4 for mice. Even after this is done, rodents can slip through open doors and windows, gain access along plumbing and other utility lines or (especially in the case of mice) be transported indoors with any merchandise. Exclusion also includes repairing doors and windows that do not operate properly or shut securely. Do not forget to inspect and repair air vents that may not be in sound working order. Incorporating the use of Rat Scat rodent repellent will also help in exclusion. Population Reduction: To quickly reduce the population of mice, traps and/or baits are used. In some situations, the use of toxic baits are not safe, legal or desired because of possible odors. When dealing with mice, we prefer a combination of traps and baits if possible. The Multi-Catch Mouse Trap is a live trap for mice that can safely be used in areas where mouse baits are not appropriate. Consider your building, children, pets, ability to deal with possible odors and dangers to none target animals when choosing products to eliminate your mouse problem. Turf Pests
* Weeds. In the "weeds" category, Busey lists goosegrass as perhaps "the" major economic pest of fine turf such as bermudagrass. In St. Augustinegrass, dollar weed ranks high. Virginia button weed is prevalent in most turf types in Florida. Sedges and alligator weed (especially on sod farms) are also problems, and tropical signalgrass is a weed that is increasingly problematic in all turf types. * Diseases. A "disease" that Busey feels should rank high on the list is nematodes, particularly sting nematodes. These microscopic roundworms can cause turf to become chlorotic and unresponsive to fertility. Their effects are especially severe in Florida's typically sandy soils, but the most difficult aspect of nematodes is the lack of good controls. Nemacur is fairly effective, explains Busey, but it's use is highly restricted and therefore not always an option. Paspalum spp. (bullgrass, dallisgrass and bahiagrass) are difficult to deal with, mainly because of a lack of effective herbicides, but also because, like Poa annua, their genetic diversity and varying biotypes result in inconsistent control.
* Insects. Grubs are the primary insect pest in Landschoot's region, but are spotty and often do not require routine treatment. Japanese beetles are responsible for most of the grub damage. Chinch bugs also cause some damage but do not constitute a major pest problem according to Landschoot. * Weeds. in terms of dollars spent and pesticides applied, crabgrass is the mostsignificant weed in his region. Collectively, broadleaf weeds roughly equal crabgrass in significance, much of that accounted for by dandelions and clover. On golf courses, Landschoot notes that Poa annua is probably the biggest weed problem. However, many superintendents now try to manage their Poa annua rather than eliminate it, so defining it as a weed depends on your approach. Crabgrass and goosegrass are also prevalent on golf courses. * Diseases. Dollar spot probably costs golf courses more than even crabgrass, according to Landschoot. Brown patch and Pythium blight are factors as well, followed by gray leaf spot on perennial ryegrass courses. * Insects. are not generally a serious problem in his area. When present, grubs largely consist of June beetles, which have a 3-year lifecycle. Therefore, they tend to be cyclical, varying in severity from year to year. * Weeds. A weed problem that seems to be increasing in severity is ground ivy, at least in urban and suburban areas. Mugaas attributes this to maturing urban forests, which increasingly shade turf and favor the ground ivy. Poa annua is a serious problem on courses that fight it, though many superintendents have instead chosen to manage it, something that Landschoot mentioned also. * Diseases. The most serious disease on lawns, and some sports turf and sod farms are primarily "patch-disease complex." No other diseases are consistent problems on general turf. Watering Lawn
Proper watering is important to maintain an attractive, healthy lawn; however water is a limited resource in Florida. Efficient water use on home lawns makes a significant contribution to water conservation. Use these guidelines to water your lawn efficiently. * Soak the soil in the root zone
SOAK THE SOIL IN THE ROOT ZONE Each watering should moisten the soil to a depth of 6-8 in. on bluegrass and 8-12 in. on other grasses. This is the grass's active root zone. The length of time and amount of water it will take to moisten the root zone depend on soil type and the irrigation system. Water will penetrate sandy soils more quickly and more deeply than clay soils. To determine the length of time required to moisten your lawn's root zone: 1. Run the sprinklers for 15 minutes. Once the length of the watering period is established, use the same period each time you water, no matter what the season. If water starts to run off the lawn before the end of the watering period, turn the water off for one hour and let the water soak in; then turn the sprinklers back on and finish watering. DO NOT LET THATCH BUILD UP Runoff is sometimes caused by excess thatch. If thatch is more than 1/2 in. thick, the lawn should be dethatched. Dethatch cool-season lawns (bluegrass or fescue) in early spring or late summer. Dethatch bermudagrass lawns in late spring. Proper mowing, watering and fertilization can reduce the buildup of thatch. To reduce thatch buildup, avoid overwatering the lawn.
How often you water will change with the seasons and soil type. First determine how much water is applied during your watering period. Set straight-sided containers like cans around the lawn and turn on the sprinklers for your usual watering period. At the end of the watering period, measure the amount of water in each of the cans. (If the depths vary widely, the sprinkler system needs adjustment. Adjust or replace the sprinkler heads as described below to get more uniform application, then do the can test again). Use the average amount of water in the cans to determine watering frequency. In the hottest part of the summer, bluegrass will use 1/4-1/3 in. of water per day. Bermuda grass can be maintained on 1/5-1/6 in. although it will use more if more is applied. If your watering period is 30 minutes on a bluegrass lawn and you apply 1 in. each time, you need to water once every 3 days in the hottest part of the summer. If you are applying more water during each watering, water less often. If you are watering your lawn more than three times per week consider soil modification, a different grass species, or a change in management practices. In spring and fall, water less frequently but for the same period of time. Avoid frequent, shallow watering. It encourages a shallow root system, which makes the lawn more susceptible to drought and grub damage. Watering too deeply should also be avoided. Water that percolates below the root zone is wasted. Water is a scarce and valuable commodity in the West and should be used carefully. When the lawn needs water the grass will take on a bluish or dull green color and the blades will begin to fold or roll. Footprints will remain visible after the lawn is walked on. The best time of day to water is in the early morning. Less water evaporates if lawns are watered when temperatures are cool and winds are calm. These conditions occur most frequently in early morning. Late afternoon and evening watering also reduces evaporation losses if winds are calm, but tends to encourage disease because the grass stays moist all night. Many of the fungus diseases that affect grass require water droplets or high humidity to sporulate and infect the plants. Midday watering is more convenient for many people and does not harm the lawn. However, more water is lost to evaporation. In most situations sprinklers are the most effective way to water lawns. Flood irrigation can also be used on level lawns where a water source is available. Sprinkler spray patterns should overlap 80-100% depending on the type of sprinkler system that is installed. Follow the manufacturer's directions for proper sprinkler installation. A good system must provide even water distribution to all grassed areas. The water must be applied to only the grassed areas, not to walls, sidewalks, driveways or streets. Use the can test described above to gauge uniformity. Most sprinkler heads have a spring adjustment to control the flow of water. Sprinklers that water less than a full circle can be adjusted to direct water away from walls and paved areas. If some sprinkler heads have been replaced, it may be necessary to replace all of the sprinkler heads in order to achieve uniform application. If the irrigation water is not supplied by a municipal water system, have the water quality tested before using it for irrigation. The test will determine if the water quality is good, borderline or too poor to use. If the water quality is borderline high in soluble salts, pH, magnesium, calcium or sodium you may need to use more water and leach some of the excess salts or minerals below the root zone. There is no need to apply extra water unless the water you are using is of borderline quality. Cutting Lawn
#1 Don't scalp the lawn. One of the biggest mowing mistakes is cutting the lawn too short. Mowing height differs by grass type and variety. The mowing height for bahia grass is from 3 to 4 inches; Bermuda grass, 1/2 inch to 1 1/2 inches; centipede grass, 1 to 2 inches; seashore paspalum, 1 to 2 inches; St. Augustine grass, 1 1/2 to 4 inches; and zoysia grass, 1 to 3 inches. Notice the large mowing height range given for St. Augustine grass. That's because the varieties have different growth habits that directly relate to mowing heights. Bitterblue, Floratam, Floralawn, FX-10 and Raleigh should be cut at a height of 3 to 4 inches; Floratine at 2 to 3 inches; and Delmar, Seville, Palmetto and Jade at 2 to 2 1/2 inches.
#2 Never remove more than one-third of the grass height when mowing. Removing too much at one cutting will stress the lawn and contribute to thatch problems. For example, if you are maintaining St. Augustine grass at 3 inches, it should be cut when the grass reaches 4 to 4 1/2 inches. If the grass has gotten too tall, try raising the mower blade, and reduce the height by mowing twice over two or three days. If the lawn is growing too quickly, try reducing the amount of fertilizer and irrigation. #3 Keep lawn mower blades sharp. Grass blades are wounded when cut and heal quicker from a clean cut than a jagged cut. Lawns cut with a dull mower develop a brown appearance because the grass blade is actually torn. This creates more stress for the lawn and makes it more susceptible to disease and insect problems. #4 Change the mowing direction each time you cut the lawn. This helps prevent wear patterns and reduces the potential for scalping. #5 Never mow the lawn with a rotary mower when grass is wet. This may be a difficult feat with the frequent afternoon showers. C
#6 Let clippings fall back on the lawn instead of bagging them. As long as the grass is cut at the proper height, this will not create a thatch problem but provide a slow-release fertilizer to the lawn. If the grass accumulates in clumps, use a leaf rake or blower to disperse. #7 Do not aim grass clippings to the street, storm drains or bodies of water. Either blow grass clippings back onto the lawn with a blower or sweep or vacuum to remove them from streets, sidewalks, or driveways. Keep grass clippings away from storm drains to prevent clogging. It might make you feel better to know that while mowing grass this summer, you're burning calories. According to the Journal of the American College of Sports Medicine, a 180-pound man burns 369 calories in 1 hour mowing with a power mower. |
lippings from wet grass will clog the lawnmower and cause an uneven cut. Clippings also tend to clump more and are not evenly dispersed over the lawn thereby creating a thatch problem.
